Rough Country 4” Suspension Lift

 I was looking at adding a body lift to be able to add larger tires in the future. But a body lift would lack the ground clearance I wanted. So I upgraded my suspension with the Rough Country 4” Suspension Lift. This would give the Jeep the ground clearance that the 2” lift and body lift just wouldn’t give me.

 When your lift comes in you will have four boxes. Two for the front and rear springs, one for the transfer case drop kit , and the last box will have the shocks, control arms, sway bar links and small parts needed to complete the lift. I should add that if you are not confidant. with ripping into your jeeps suspension, or do not have the proper tools to face anything that might come up, you may want to find someone that can install this for you.

 First thing you will want to do before ever turning a wrench on your Jeep, is to check the kit for any missing parts. Last thing you want is to get half way threw the install and find out something is missing.

 After checking for all the needed hardware, Prepare the shocks, and lower control arms. You still have to install the boots and bushings on the shocks, but the mounting hardware is already installed. Would have been nice if they would have installed the boots on the rear shocks as this is a pain with the mounting hardware already installed.

 Here is what you can expect to get with your kit. The bushings are rubber, would have liked if they were made of poly, If this is a problem, just order some poly before installing the kit.

 Here is what your front shock will look like completed. Note the rubber will be above and below the shock mount.

 Next we installed the bushings to the lower control arms. This comes in two halves. Simple push them into place. Add the bushing insert and your done. (see next picture.

 Now for the fun part, taking all the old suspension parts off. The instructions say to do one half at a time, but is just as easy to support the whole Jeep on jack stands at once. This will save us some time in the long run.

 First thing we did was to remove the shocks from the front. Letting the axle hang freely making it easy to remove the old springs. If you are adding a lift from stock, the springs should just pull right out of the housing.

 Remove the stock pitman arm, note the difference. in drop angle from the stock. Anything over a 3” lift will need a new pitman arm so everything will line up right. Mark on the old pitman arm mount where it was positioned to help install the new one. Grooves are made in both the stock and kit pitmans to help install, but there is still a chance of misalignment when installing.

 Now install the new pitman arm, being sure to line it up the way it was before. A small mark with a paint marker can help show you the way to install it.

 Here is what your suspension should look like when you have the shock and spring removed. Note the lower control arm in the picture. It is important to remove one side at a time when doing the install, this will keep the alignment adjustment to a minimum.

 Here is the difference. from the Kits 4” springs, 2” lift springs and stock springs. Not only are the springs longer they are thicker. The 2” springs are the same size as the stock but thicker.

 Mark the adjustment cam position. You will need to do this for the lower control arm install. This will insure that it will line up properly when reinstalling the new lower control arms.

 Now install the control arm relocation bracket. You will need a big hammer for this one. Position the bracket as shown where the stock bracket is and tap on it until it is seated into place. You may need to hit it pretty hard to get it to go in. Then drill a hole threw the old bracket for the support bolt.

 Now that that is done, Install the new springs. We suggest getting a hydro strut tool from harbor freight. This will make things a whole lot easier. And will cut done the time to install, not to mention some skin on your knuckles. Next Install your new shocks that came with the kit. Once that is done, raise the Jeep a bit and re install your tires. Then set the front end back down. Time for the back.

 The back is by far the easiest part of the whole install. Again like the front, remove the shocks first. Then remove the springs. The rear spring will not just fall out this time. Step on the brake drum and they should fall out. You will again do one side at a time.

 A good heavy coating of P.B. Blaster is a good idea before attempting. the install. You will find that the bolts will be hard to turn if you don’t. If they are still hard to turn, Give them a tap to loosen them up a bit paying close attention not to damage the bolts.

This is what It should all look like then finished. Be sure to read all the instructions. Do a final check of all bolts then reinstall the tires. Once you are done putting your rear tires down you will need to add your transfer case spacer kit. Loosen one side and support it with a jack. Go To the other side and remove the bolts. Adjust the jack as needed to install the spacer. Loosen, but do not remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the pan. The go to the other side and install the kit. The tighten everything up.

 This is the transfer case drop kit. Real simple to install.

Now for the before and after shots. To the left is with the two inch lift and the right is with the Rough Country Lift.

Before with 2” Lift After with 4” Lift