Every rig should have at least one set of offroad lights. This will cover the tools needed and a basic write up with parts and diagram.

Tools needed:

Wire cutters, wire fitting crimpers, liquid tape(Or electrical tape).Drill

Parts needed:

(2) Off road lights, lighted or standard toggle switch (12v 10 amp for lighted), 20/30 amp relay, 2 inline fuse. 1 20 amp fuse. 16 gauge wire. drill bit

First thing I did was checked to see if the holes were large enough to mount the lights without drilling. No such luck. I widened the hole with a 9/16th drill bit.

Now that the lights are installed we can start wiring them up. I used Green 16 gauge wire for the lights to the relay. This made it easier to install on the relay. I used the front Jeep cover bolts to ground out the lights

Disconnect the batteries negative cable, I ran the Yellow wire for the power from the battery across the back of the engine compartment Using wire ties to connect it to an existing wire loom. DO NOT CONNECT THE WIRE TO THE BATTERY YET! When measuring how much wire you need measure 3 times the distance of the engine compartment.

On the driver side, there is a rubber plug that leads to the floor board of the driver side. We used this plug as an entry point for the remote start also. Poke a small hole with a small screwdriver just big enough for the wire to poke threw. Put both wires( Green from the lights and yellow from the battery) threw the plug into the cab.

This is what your wires will look like when you get them pulled threw. You may have to pull your carpet back a bit to get access to the wires. Just leave the wires sit until you are ready to hook them up to the relay.

Next we picked a fused wire that connects to a fuse in the fuse block. This is only rated for a max of 10 amps, this wire will be going to our switch, if you are using a lighted switch, make sure it is a 10 amp, if you have a 20 amp lighted switch it will not light up and it will have to be wired to the battery

Note the red wire is the wire for the switch, make it long enough to be able to hook it up to either the radio or dome light fuse depending on if you want to have the lights come on with the key off. I hooked it up to the radio for now. This will be hard wired to the battery later due to needing more power to light the switch.

Now remove the vent trim and the cover for the radio to get access to the switch / lighter unit.

If you haven’t do so yet wire your ground to your switch (Not needed if you are not using a lighted switch.

If you plan on installing your switch in the stock location, remove the switch plate cover by removing 4 screws. This will give you access to the switch blanks. Remove one switch blank and by using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the excess plastic inside.

Once you remove the plastic, Dill a hole for your switch. If you can get a switch that will fit in the stock location, just toss the blank.

Now run the power wire from the fuse block over to the switch plate location and run the wire up threw the dash. This might get a little tricky depending on how far down you took apart the dash. The Run a wire from the switch plate location to the driver side of the cab, we used whit for this wire, this will control the switching of the relay. Now install the switch to the switch plate and finish wiring the switch.

Now that you have all the wires ran, find a good place to install the relay, cut the wire from the battery( Yellow) and place a inline fuse rated at 20 amps, Ground the relay to the body, there should be a stock location on the driver side. To finish the wiring follow the diagram below. I tried to make this as simple as possible.

Now that the relay is wired up connect the wire to the battery, then reconnect the neg. battery cable. The try them out!